Further Action Planning
Time Management Gantt Chart
Graph 3.
Order of Prototype Construction
Top
Bottoms (Binding)
- Using the tricot underwire frame, sew the bra cups onto the frame about 0.5cm from the edge. Use straight stitch with right sides together.
- Apply 10mm underwire casing in white using a casing folder. Sew by threading the casing through the folder, with two needles on straight stitch. Face bra cups up, and sew around the bottom edge. The first needle should be following the bra cup line, with the second about 0.5cm from the bra cup.
- Check the underwire fits in the casing.
- Check the sides fit to front pattern piece. Trim top of cups to fit sides if necessary.
- To stabilise the trimmed bra cups, sew a small strip of tricot tape (7mm) to the top of the bra cups. Use an overlock stitch, which will prevent any stretching. You must remove the underwire to do this.
- Batak the middle of the underwire casing to the middle of the lining only.
- Sew the lining to the top front all around edges (about 3mm from edge of fabric).
- Sew a small line of stitches from the bottom of the frame to the front piece.
- Attach the boning casing to the sides of the frame with a straight stitch along each edge.
- Sew the frame to the front piece in a small set of stitches.
- Put underwire and boning in both casings. Sew the top to keep secure.
- Overlock all sides and edges of top together to prepare for binding. Flip the bra cups inside out to make sit flat so easier to sew.
- Gather the under-bust between notches, using a small piece of clear elastic sewn stretched by fingers along the overlocked edge.
- Bind the top straps using a binding folder with a rolled up strip of fabric getting fed through. Thread the elastic through the folder as you stitch. Sew first the top middle strip, then down both sides leaving at least 40cm extra length for the adjustable straps.
- Bind the undercuts with a larger folder and a wider fabric strip (70mm). Thread both the fabric and elastic through the folder as you stitch. Make sure there is no double fold of elastic, always test first. When the machine is about to go over thick fabric (like boning) use your hand to run the machine slowly and carefully to prevent breaking needles.
Bottoms (Binding)
- Cut out lining and outside pants pattern pieces.
- With right sides of lining and outside facing, sew together both leg hole seams on the baby lock using a 6mm elastic and 7.5mm width stitch.
- Zig-zag stitch the elastic to the lining fabric all around the leg holes.
- Turn fabric right side out through the sides. Then match up the side seams with right sides facing. Overlock these seams together.
- Bind the top of the pants with a 25mm elastic and a 70mm fabric strip. Thread both the fabric and elastic through the folder as you stitch. Make sure there is no double fold of elastic, always test first.
- Cut the end of the binding where it overlaps. Fold over and sew to the side of the pants.
- Cut out four dress panel pieces in chiffon fabric.
- Zig-zag stitch both side edges on front and back pieces to prevent fraying.
- Fold the arm hole edge over 1cm. Tack in place, then sew a 1cm seam along this edge.
- Fold over the top edge 3cm. Sew a 2cm seam for the neck strap to fit through.
- With right sides facing, sew both front and back panels together at the sides (1cm seam).
- Make six long 5cm wide strips of patterned nylon/spandex fabric, with right sides together, sew a 1cm seam and turn inside out creating strips with patterns on both sides.
- Plait the neck and belt ties and tie knots at the end. Thread through the neck holes and gather the front and back evenly.
- Hand stitch gold charms onto the bottom of each knot on the neck and belt ties.
- With right sides of lining and outside facing, sew together both leg hole seams on the baby lock using a 6mm elastic and 7.5mm width stitch.
- Zig-zag stitch the elastic to the lining fabric all around the leg holes.
- Baby lock the elastic onto both top of front and back panels. Flip right side out through side seams.
- Overlock the side seams together without elastic.
- Make ruolo (ties) with 25mm width fabric strip and 6mm elastic. This is done by overlocking the elastic to the edge of the folded strip and pull through using a long thin stick. Cut length of tie in half, leaving approx 70cm for each side.
- Fold over the overlocking o the sides of the pants and sew a seam approx 1cm away from the end. This is to ensure enough room for the roil to fit through.
- Hand stitch a large needle to the end of the roil and thread through the hole in the sides.
- Try on pants and make sure it's a good fit. Cut the ruolo to the length preferred.
- Thread the gold charms onto the ends of the ties and fold over the end to batak closed.
- Cut off all loose threads.
Materials List
Table 8.